BITE will keep you in touch with what I’m eating and what I love and what I left on my plate. I’ll share dialogues I have with heroes and divas, princes and barracudas and what I overhear from the next table. Not every day will I have a meal worth writing about, I suspect, not good enough, not bad enough. Dear friends have asked me if I could try to be meaner so I fit in better on the net. I intend to try. As any man who has lived with me will tell you, I was born to be a critic. Of course, isn’t it the critic who has the thinnest skin of all? I must admit to a certain anxiety. It’s been a long time since I wrote without an editor, a fact checker and a copy-reader to catch my errors, misspellings and typos. I apologize in advance. I’m left-handed and that can sometimes be confusing. I might have stopped reviewing restaurants twenty-five years ago when my first novel, Blue Skies, No Candy lingered on the best seller list. But I am addicted to instant gratification. So I’m still here. On my death bed, I am sure my last words will echo those of the sister of Brillat Savarin:
“Bring on dessert.”
December 9, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
Think of the pedigree here, after all: Harvard scholar, Retail Princess, nearly twenty years as the marketing right hand of Daniel Boulud…
December 2, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
It was so bucolic up there one evening last week, the cabbie graciously swung a ”U” on West 106th to drop us on the north side of the street.
November 18, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
Red Farm UWS
It might have been the last time anyone would see an empty table at 2170 Broadway…
November 11, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
Contra is Indicated
I see that the menu asks $3 for bread. I’m annoyed...
November 4, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
I knew the original Bilboquet as a cramped little sardine can catering to the Upper East Social set, whatever that is. I shouldn’t be so snobby…
October 28, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
Congenital cynics might dismiss it as pop goods recycled, a sequel, or the exploitation of an aging debutante already deprived of her virginity in Las Vegas…
October 21, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
I like sitting high above the West Side Highway watching the traffic...
September 23, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
It’s the shiver of triumph you sense landing...
September 16, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
Sip Sak At Last
By the time I found the charming green metal-guarded storefront, our posse had assembled. They were frowning and muttering…
September 9, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
The chef has a manic laugh. It’s making me smile as I watch him put a pinch of I know not what into a clutch of rice and massage it with his palm....
September 3, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
The Juni Challenge
Michelin-starred Shaun Hergatt didn’t come from Australia to gild a zillion duck breasts in the kitchens of Ritz Carltons without his own Faberge dream…
August 25, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
The dreaded kale, it’s my fault. I was too quick to get in line, I didn’t study the “signature salad” ingredients posted on the wall…
August 19, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
Quality Italian Steakhouse
First you need Ritalin to navigate dozens of starters you want, need, crave. And then your waiter hogs the stage…
August 12, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
I’m already defanged by the menu note that says: “Sticky rice tastes better when you eat it with your hands.” I think everything tastes better when you use your fingers…
August 5, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
Flat Top/Jin Ramen
There’s a blast of revelry as millennials gather up front, sipping wine or beer or an iced Blue Bottle latte at tall tables….
July 29, 2013 | BITE: My Journal
The Elm Grows in Brooklyn
There have always been two schools of minnows differing on Paul Liebrandt and food as art. So I was eager to see what the star-bedecked auteur chef considers simple and accessible food…