BITE will keep you in touch with what I’m eating and what I love and what I left on my plate. I’ll share dialogues I have with heroes and divas, princes and barracudas and what I overhear from the next table. Not every day will I have a meal worth writing about, I suspect, not good enough, not bad enough. Dear friends have asked me if I could try to be meaner so I fit in better on the net. I intend to try. As any man who has lived with me will tell you, I was born to be a critic. Of course, isn’t it the critic who has the thinnest skin of all? I must admit to a certain anxiety. It’s been a long time since I wrote without an editor, a fact checker and a copy-reader to catch my errors, misspellings and typos. I apologize in advance. I’m left-handed and that can sometimes be confusing. I might have stopped reviewing restaurants twenty-five years ago when my first novel, Blue Skies, No Candy lingered on the best seller list. But I am addicted to instant gratification. So I’m still here. On my death bed, I am sure my last words will echo those of the sister of Brillat Savarin:
“Bring on dessert.”
July 21, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
We are exclaiming with surprise and pleasure over the stunning still life of octopus “pastrami” terrine…
July 14, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
It would take deep analysis and a major body lift...
July 7, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
I would not have predicted a cornflake fried chicken triumph or even the marvelous rare duck with mole poblano….
June 30, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
It’s vibrating. Instinctively, I recoil as if struck. Ahead I see the golden glow of 1,000 illuminated bottles. The ceiling soars making a hurricane of noise.
June 23, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
I may be a little slow to hit the Brooklyn restaurant heat trail. But like other serious and determined New York eaters – I’m a professional after all -- I eventually get there…
June 16, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The first thing I notice walking in is the astonishing, golden glow. And next, standing just inside the door, brother Brian. Well, it is “Friends and Family” night…
June 8, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The truth is I know nothing about Sardinian food…
June 2, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
North River Lobster Co.
I like the idea of boarding a ship and going nowhere. I don’t mind bobbing, swaying, lurching sideways for an hour or so...
May 26, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Tavern on the Green
I’ll want to claim my table under an umbrella in the garden for a romantic dinner on some not-too-humid evening this summer...
May 12, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
My skeptical dining companion, an unabashed carnivore, is surprised to find himself bypassing slow-roasted bone-in ribeye in favor of Chef John Fraser’s carrot whimsy.
May 5, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
It begins with an amuse of “Decoy Chips” and pickles from the half dozen or so at the bar. Decoy chips? Fish skin, crispy and instantly addictive…
April 28, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Best Chicken Dishes
These are my favorite birds right now, not exactly in pecking order, with a collision of greats at the top…
April 20, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
“I want to explain our concept,” the waitress begins cheerfully. I brace myself. I’m losing my sense of humor. At least the hostess seated me without an argument when I arrived ahead of my party.
April 13, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Blue Hill @Stone Barns
I think I knew something messianic was afoot, but it didn’t sink in that my friends and I were signing on for a three and a half hour immersion in nature…
April 7, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The usual display of discipline vanishes with the landing of olives and the house’s fabulous blowsy flat bread like a stretched-out pita…
March 31, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
But just say Harlem and they’re in...
March 24, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Indeed, it’s only a few weeks into its quiet opening, but not too soon to be excited by what I’ve tasted…
March 17, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The River Café
I‘ve never lost the shiver of thrill I get from the diamond-filigree of bridge and skyline across the East River, or the rush over floral exuberance, of roses in every color and forsythia exploding in winter from concrete floors as the tide churns below…
March 3, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Yes, the lace curtains are charming…