March 19, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
La Quenelle: Beyond Classic
Cyril Renaud whips off the mask of making do, revealing the ambitious chef who won three stars at the late La Caravelle, cheerleading an economic recovery.
March 12, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
A Chef’s Curriculum Vitae
It is too soon to write, I know. But I’m excited to discover Edwin Bellanco, a chef I’ve never noticed who’s been around forever…
March 5, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Empellón Cocina
Maybe it was the remarkable guacamole, studded with bits of pistachio, under a flutter of cilantro leaves. Already I’m wired.
February 27, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Jeanne and Gaston
It looks cute, with mullioned windows, small string lights, sidewalk board advertising the $40 prix fixe, but inside it’s almost empty…
February 21, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Alison Eighteen
At last, a restaurant for grownups, casual but proper, respectful of threatened values, like enough light to read the menu and a noise-muffling ambiance…
February 6, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Caffé Storico Does Cicchetti
It’s a stunner, with a casual, dazzling sunniness that might make you feel you’ve stepped into a time warp…
January 30, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Bowery Diner Ambition
I like the vintage diner airs with retro metal chairs in pastel hues. I like the pretty crowd. I like the waiter’s modish haircut. I’m nuts about this Reuben…
January 23, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
La Mangeoire Redux
Such longevity in this cruelly fickle town might be reason enough to check in…
January 16, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Prima on First
It's Saturday night live and neighbors with a car have signed on for adventure…
January 9, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
El Cheapo Does Lunch
The economy needs me to lunch, for these three places I'm happy to oblige...
December 19, 2011 | BITE: My Journal
The Smith Midtown
I count it as a favorite spot to eat everything I love that isn’t good for me on a shoestring, most hauntingly, my favorite mac’n'cheese…
December 12, 2011 | BITE: My Journal
Kutsher’s Tribeca
Sixties Borscht Belt is rarely listed among the top ten cuisines. I worried that Jeffrey Chodorow might be riding into a wall…
December 5, 2011 | BITE: My Journal
Todd Plays The Plaza
Everything you ever wanted to eat but were too...
November 28, 2011 | BITE: My Journal
Loi Logic
I’m hearing the voice of the people: Fish lovers. Refugees from Milos. Healthy eaters of a certain age. Grownups, shall I say, grateful for dignity?
November 21, 2011 | BITE: My Journal
Kibo Ambitions
My guests tonight are over the moon about Steve Hanson's newest offering in the sprawling space where Japonais used to be...
November 14, 2011 | BITE: My Journal
Americano
Welcome to Chelsea Riviera, the city’s newest, surely soon to be hot neighborhood not far from the meandering High Line…
November 7, 2011 | BITE: My Journal
La Promenade des Anglais
Not that it doesn't look great…the spiffy collage of graphics on the ceiling, bold shaded lights with their perforated shades, checkerboard floor and slightly rumpled blue velvet banquettes...