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Hot news, gossip, nibbles and bits...
The outrageously fabulous Palace that was...
Exposed: Why Patricia Welles' recipe for l’Ami Louis’ pommes Béarnaise doesn’t work. Please scroll to bottom of right hand column.
"Fuck you if you want to be French," Cesare Casella tells David Bouley...
A passionate burger fan reports on a pilgrimage to Queens for the holy cow...
Sirio seethes over Adam Tihany’s Daniel rehab...
Want to impress 226 food world stars? If you are Marvin Shanken, hosting the 20th anniversary birthday of Food Arts you serve Chateau Margaux 1995...
EMAIL ME your news, tips and gossip.  Drew Nieporent hopes chef-partner Paul Liebrandt will be Corton’s David Bouley. Photo: Steven Richter. It’s the first night Corton is open to walk-ins and the room is not yet finished, but the friendly open square has an easy club-house feel, very see-and-be-seen… more... The kitchen honors the sweet voluptuousness of great scallops. Photo: Steven Richter In yet another premature mid-life crisis, Compass has redesigned itself for the third time and emerged looking good with a new seafood focus…
more... How dapper he is in velvet, Frank Valenza, Lord of the Palace surveys the chef’s whimsies. For cuisinary highs and giggles, I will tell about my first dinner at the preposterous and preposterously delightful Palace… more... |
When Fred Deutsch complained at l’Ami Louis in Paris that the recipe for pommes béarnaise in his favorite Patricia Welles cook book produced nothing like the real thing – a lush, rich, crispy potato cake with a ton of chopped raw garlic and parsley sprinkled on top, he got the answer.
"You don’t think I’d give her the complete recipe, do you?" Louis Gadby responded.
Deutsch writes:
"So I invited myself into the kitchen to watch the chef in action. That was a big mistake for me. It seems the recipe did not call for just three tablespoons of chicken fat (as Welles wrote) but for more than two cups of goose fat. I made it once that way for the family. What a difference that fat makes. Here’s how to do it..."
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