December 8, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
La Mangeoire: Au Revoir Christian
It’s Chef Christian Delouvrier’s last hurrah on Second Avenue. That’s not to say it’s the end of glory for La Mangeoire...
May 14, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Dragonfly
My friends on the Upper East Side endlessly complain they have nowhere to eat except for the usual Italian fixtures…
January 23, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
La Mangeoire Redux
Such longevity in this cruelly fickle town might be reason enough to check in…
March 10, 2011 | Fork Play Index
Fork Play Index
http://insatiable-critic.com/admin/Article.aspx?id=1485
October 5, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
A Voce West
Now chef Missy Robbins stakes her claim to this turf with a bold prelude: fat slices of focaccia slicked with oil…
November 13, 2007 | BITE: My Journal
Grayz Domain/Compass Supper
I’m not going to start by dissecting Gray Kunz in hopes of somehow divining his motivations. I’m going to start with Thursday’s rare and magical lunch. We are a trio of consenting gourmands...
October 16, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Café Gray
For deliciously ostentatious swank that's infinitely cheaper than a status handbag, you must try the $85 black-truffle pizza on the new Brasserie menu in the bar at Cafe Gray.
October 18, 2004 | Ask Gael
You got into Café Gray early. And . . . ?
What a sweet conceit to call it Café Gray. It’s an ebullient fantasy, Lespinasse-at-a-discount (entrées $22 to $34) with Gray Kunz hustling in his Bulgari of a kitchen overlooking Central Park. He’s been saving the silver cassolettes...
June 14, 2004 | Ask Gael
What’s that exotic rhythm on Rockefeller Plaza?
That would be the keening ghazals of the sitar and the drum chant that herald Chinatown lion dancers leaping across the flower-decked esplanades of Rockefeller Center at Taj Hotels’ Feast of Many Moons—a giant cookout on June 14 in the garden below Prometheus...
November 9, 1998 | Vintage Insatiable
Lespinasse Encore: Born-Again Christian
After stepping into Gray Kunz's 4-star shoes at the St. Regis, Christian Delouvrier discovers depths he never knew he had.
January 31, 1994 | Vintage Insatiable
Les Célèbrités: The Sweet Smell of Excess
Not everyone was humbled in the nineties. Don't you feel the frisson? Déjà moola. Grown men throwing billions at each other for Paramount and a building where the windows pop out. Wall Street still cashing in on our primal optimism. So forget about feeling indigent. Come join us…
October 28, 1991 | Vintage Insatiable
The Gray Eminence
I forgive the yawn of the room for the exhilaration of Kunz at his uniquely obsessed best…up to all his old tricks, the minimalist cooking that speaks of the Girardet training, the Asian exotica of his Hong Kong years fused in a glorious alchemy...
July 31, 1989 | Vintage Insatiable
Adrienne: Swiss Watch
Nobody cooks like Gray Kunz. Not in New York. No one who’s ever fed me. He is a gifted original, animated by his mentor, the mythic Fredy Girardet, yet with his own brilliant palette, his own subtle signature…