January 1, 1990 |
Vintage Insatiable
Vintage Insatiable Critic: 1990
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RAKEL AND ROSE: BALLAD OF THE GLAD CAFES
February 26, 1990
“Trading down” is the mantra of nineties dining. The gentler and kinder feedery has dimmed the glitz, shaved the tab, unstarched the hauteur to woo battle-dazed New Yorkers. Welcome to the morning after… more
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GÉRARD’S PLACE/BARROW STREET BISTRO
March 5, 1990
“It’s bigger than I wanted.” Pangaud says. “But the kitchen is beautiful, a pleasure to work in.” He cooks “what I want to eat,” he explains, robust peasant food made very elegant... more
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LAFAYETTE: THE DRAKE'S PROGRESS
March 19, 1990
Most everything at Lafayette is delicious if not downright dazzling. Jean-Georges Vongerichten has made the sublime – well, sublime…more
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FEEDING FRENZY
April 30, 1990
No name beckons – just a yellow nicotine glow in the evening drear of SoHo and a small decal on the Grand Street door of Lucky Strike, open every day from noon till 4 a.m. It’s noisy, smoky, young... more
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GARDEN VARIETY: DESOLATION AND DINING AT MADISON SQUARE GARDEN
May 7, 1990
We’re going to the game. The Knicks. He’s flying.. Being me, I want to know where we can eat. How about a picnic from Fairway… crusty bread, fabulous cheese, a good Burgundy? He is exasperated. “It’s a basketball game, not a cruise on the QE2.” ... more
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CHEAPER EATS
June 4, 1990
Even the grand masters of the Feeding Universe are panicked. Rumbles of gloom have a way of making even the rich feel poor. Slump talk can become self-fulfilling. Actually, the hunger for casual dining began long ago... more
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LE BERNARDIN: LOAVES AND FISHES
July 30, 1990
Fate and duty keep me out stalking what’s new and wonderful, not leaving time for simple indulgence—like a night at my favorite Le Bernardin. But when a friend claimed you could roll a bowling ball... more
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E.A.T: ELI ZABAR STANDS, CHUTZPA RAMPANT
July 31, 1990
A browser eyeing the price tags on the sandwiches to go clutches her throat and backs out the door... more
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VINCE & EDDIE'S / EDWARDIAN ROOM
November 5, 1990
It was always a lark eating too much at my grandma Cecilia’s house. I feel the same exuberance and pampering here, with its sweet homage to Grandma, even though the clunky green-and-white water glasses didn’t come with jelly in them…As for the Plaza’s Edwardian Room…If you wanted quiet good taste, you could have yawned at home... more
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REMI/MARK'S AT THE MARK HOTEL: VENICE SERVED
November 12, 1990
Was Adam Tihany a dilettante or just another renaissance man?... His new Remi is packing them in like calamari…
The miniature lobby seems almost devoured by an explosion of autumn…and more sartorial spiff bowing you into the mahogany-velvet-and-silk embrace of Mark’s... more
December 24, 1990
Perhaps it is not necessary to be crazed, obsessed, and monomaniacal (if not megalomaniacal) to flourish in New York. And yet so many are. Count David Bouley in that pantheon... more
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