Broadway Bites Creates Greeley Square Chaos
by Maria Yagoda
Greeley Square, the slim wedge of tables, chairs, and greenery at 32nd street and Broadway just south of Macy’s, is pure urban chaos -- sprawling packs of tourists, hurtling New Yorkers, and ruthless pigeons normally make it feel forbidding to me. But I was determined to scout Broadway Bites, the hub of food vendors that populates the space every summer (June 3 to August 1), and again in the fall (October 1 to November 14.)
La Newyorkina holds down the fort with its cart of tasty Mexican ice pops. I braved the pop-up food market opening day, gravitating first towards the frozen confections to cool off from my frenzied trek from Penn Station. La Newyorkina’s cart caught my eye at 32nd Street and I stopped to buy a Pineapple Jalapeño ice pop. The Mexican popsicle -- studded with sweet shreds of pineapple and little bits of pepper -- knocked me out. Sweet and torid. I had to buy another.
That didn't stop me from trying Bangkok Bar’s tangy strawberry-lemonade pop, inspired by Thai street sweets. That led me directly to the two lively Italian women behind Gelato Ti Amo, an East Village shop that imports gelato and sorbetto from Florence. Their humble vaniglia gelato could, in fact, be the market’s best bite.
Strawberry ice pops inspired by Thai street sweets wait in a vat of ice water. Didn't someone say "eat dessert first?” With my sweet craving taken care of, I sought out something savory and more like dinner. Surveying the vendors' offerings, I began to wonder: when did ball-shaped foods become one of New York’s hottest food trends? The vast range of balls at Broadway Bites is remarkable, from Mighty Balls’ exceptional meatballs to Arancini Bros deep-fried risotto orbs to not one, but two stands featuring Japanese-inspired ball-shaped snacks.
Mimi and Coco’s teriyaki balls are topped with bonito and “tempura crunchy flakes.” Onigiri by Tampopo specializes in hand-molded, seaweed-wrapped rice balls stuffed with fillings like spicy shrimp and garlic miso, and Mimi and Coco, the Smorgasburg favorites known for their Japanese “teriyaki balls,” do a big business with deep-fried doughy rounds filled with octopus, country sausage, or potatoes and generously topped with teriyaki sauce and bonito flakes.
My advice: order the octopus balls, and share with no one.
I forgot to take a picture of the lobster roll before eating a big bite. For a quick meal, it's probably smarter to go with a handheld option, so you don’t lose your mind managing the crowd, your own personal humidity, and a steaming plate of food. Red Hook Lobster Pound once again defends its title as the New York lobster roll king: each Maine-style roll overflows with fresh, plump pieces of lobster mixed with a touch of seasoned mayo so subtle even my mayonnaise-loathing friend approved.
Brooklyn Taco’s potato and chorizo taco is a stand-out among many contenders. Charlito’s Cocino is another sandwich stand-out: their panini stuffed with fresh mozzarella and housemade truffle salami is satisfying and simple, outshining flashier sandwiches -- Jicama NYC’s inedible donut pork slider wastes perfectly delicious roast pork by stuffing it (along with large shreds of kale) into greasy donuts. Brooklyn Taco’s fiery potato and chorizo taco, topped with pineapple salsa and crema, was definitely the best taco of my tasting.
Nunu Chocolate’s frozen white wine sangria is fruity and refreshing.
What to drink with this eclectic feast? Quite Clearly Nunu’s Chocolate’s frozen white wine sangria -- a sweet slush of South African white wine and frozen fruit. I had to order a second. This one I drank alongside Mason Jar NY's masterfully fried pickle chips. Greeley Square never looked better.
At Greeley Square, at 32nd Street between Broadway and Avenue of the Americas. Open June 3 to August 1, 11 am to 9 pm daily.