It was the union that sent Joël Robuchon fleeing the Four Seasons Hotel

Yosuke Suga with Joël Robuchon

          Why is Joel Robuchon closing his Atelier de Robuchon at The Four Seasons when his lease expires Saturday? Ask any veteran restaurateur. It’s a challenge to run a restaurant under a hotel union. As one of Robuchon’s team put it: “with the union your hands are tied up.”

          The Michelin master plans a Manhattan return, but not soon, he has said.

          Meanwhile there has been a shakeup in Robuchon’s team – a collection of a dozen men (yes men) he counts on to help kick start and noodle  his global empire. From Singapore where Robuchon opened last April in the Genting Singapore Resorts World Sentosa, his top right hand for 26 years, Phlippe Braun confirmed he would be leaving to open a small, traditional, fixed meal restaurant in Toulouse.

          Robuchon has promoted Yosuke Suga to Braun’s spot.  Suga was the executive chef at the Four Seasons before moving on  to Tokyo and then Paris.

          Braun is Alsatian. The owners of the famed Crocodile in Salzburg are his uncle and aunt. But he’s fallen in love with Southwestern France. “I love the people. I love the countryside.” He will be the cook and his wife Alma will be in the dining room. “It will be family style cooking, just one menu, served in cocottes, bread on the table, stainless steel cutlery in a porcelain holder.” he said.  “But there will be a nice setting--Bernadaud china, glasses by Riedel. We will open the wine bottle and leave it on the table for guests to pour."  It will cost 20 euros at lunch, 40 at dinner.

          Braun says he will come whenever Robuchon calls. “It was the most wonderful 26 years together.  Atelier was the highlight of my life. From time to time I will  be with him. Whenever he wants me, I will follow him anywhere."

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