Vintage Insatiable Critic: 1988-1989

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OVER THE RAINBOW: RENAISSANCE OF A NEW YORK CLASSIC

February 8, 1988

Yes, it's true that late one night last summer, Joe Baum slipped in the entry to his apartment building and landed on his head, requiring 112 stitches, but that blow was nothing compared with the trauma of opening the new -- strike that -- newly restored Rainbow Room and David Rockefeller's dream club in the stratosphere... more

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ZABAR'S: VALHALLA A LA MURRAY KLEIN

April 18, 1988

 "You should see the people of the neighborhood bring in their friends to show them Zabar's," says Murray Klein. "They have such pride. I wish I felt pride, too. We got 200 people working... more

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PLAIN & FRANCEY

May 9, 1988

My gourmaniacal schizophrenia has me snapping at myself. One half almost believes it's worth selling your BMW to finance a trufflish pampering in France... more

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TRACKING PATRICK CLARK AT METRO

May 30, 1988

At faintly fuddy-duddy Metro, free for the first time to whisk to his own beat, Patrick Clark is cooking better than ever…more

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THE JOYS AND SORROW OF NIGHTCRAWLING

June 27, 1988

The success bitch is a tramp…whimsical and cruel, especially to clubs and restaurants. Tonight it’s love. Tomorrow, a frenzy of adulation. Next week, Chapter 11...more

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EATING ON THE WATER

July 1, 1988

Down by the riverside: It’s mood more than food…more

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HOW TO EAT HEALTHY IN NEW YORK'S GREAT RESTAURANTS

August 15, 1988

Science has me finally convinced: Passionate excess can lead to ugliness and inconvenient disrepair, to a hasty and painful exit... more

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BRAIN FOOD: HUBERTS

October 17, 1988

Len Allison’s culinary mixed metaphors are showcased in Adam Tihany’s shimmering Japanese temple on Park…more

 

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WEST SIDE GLORY

November 21, 1988

“I got tired of hearing myself complain about how difficult it is to find fine food on the West Side.”more

 

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AN AMERICAN PLACE

March 27, 1989

An American Place II opened soft, without trumpets, but by the second Saturday night, food-worldlings outnumbered civilians. The chill and clatter of La Coupole has been warmed and muffled… more

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LE CIRQUE: CIRCUS OF THE STARS

April 10, 1989

Now at Le Cirque, toiling in the vortex of Sirio Maccioni’s consuming obsession with perfection, Daniel Boulud is flying. Day after day, he perfects dramatic new matings, all the while reviving great bistro classics… more

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BRIVE: THE SKATE HATH NEW WINGS

April 10, 1989

It’s almost like a neurological affliction, a nervous tic, Bobby Pritsker’s infamous irreverence. The little inside jokes on Brive’s menus. “Franks and beans, ballpark style.” Isn't it enough that his “surf as turf” sings with flavor? ... more

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150 WOOSTER: BRIAN'S BODY SHOP

July 7, 1989

If only we could bottle Brian McNally. If only some Harvard MBA could reproduce McNally’s seemingly improvisational fumblings to a formula. For months we’ve been hearing that Brian was to open a restaurant… more

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ADRIENNE: SWISS WATCH

July 31, 1989

Nobody cooks like Gray Kunz. Not in New York. No one who’s ever fed me. He is a gifted original, animated by his mentor, the mythic Fredy Girardet, yet with his own brilliant palette, his own subtle signature…more

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ALISON'S ON DOMINICK: TRIPPING THE BITE FANTASTIC

August 14, 1989

Behind the billowing deep-blue velvet curtain, I assume. “It’s a funeral parlor,” whispers one of my chums. But the gloomy intimation quickly fades as we succumb to the perfume of butter turning the deep hue of hazelnut…more

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FLAMINGO EAST: NEST FOR PACK RATS

August 15, 1989

What makes a new beanery hot? Sometimes just saying so… often enough, in the right places…But it’s a summery Saturday, and only a few bright-lights-bedazzled moths buzz the bar…more

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WHY THEY KILL TO GET INTO 150 WOOSTER

October 10, 1989

The battle to be in the right boite at a status table before Calvin and Bianca move on never ends.  Scarred and smartened by tabletop power struggles, we hungry New Yorkers will try anything…more

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ROYALTON FLUSH

November 20, 1989

44” already draws its share of trendetti.Fashion pages from Details come to life. One Friday at dinner, most everyone looks like a rock group at the very least…" more

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December 25, 1989

We’ve hired a car and are off in search of downtown. Specifically, downtown “eats.” Eat-heat. Anthropology on toast. A couple of immutable uptowners among the aborigines. Isn't it amazing? Suddenly, New York’s hottest and most imperative restaurants...more

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