July 1, 2002 | Insatiable Critic
Cold Comfort

        I taste. I shiver. I sit up straighter. My invisible antennae are trembling. I taste again. This cassata gelato with its confetti of glazed fruit and a collar of syrupy slices of confited orange is not merely seriously great ice cream. I try the nocciola, the coffee, the boldly tart ricotta—what can I say? With his stubborn devotion to old-world ways, Bussola's Gino Cammarata churns out classic gelato—lush, creamy, seductive, with pure essences of vanilla, hazelnut, espresso. Buy a cone or cup or even a pint in the annex next door, or settle at a table in the bar area to celebrate la dolce vita. Linger for espresso or a glass of prosecco and gelati-filled cannoli or the cocoa-dusted "porcini" or a dish of Sicilian pistachio. Definitely worth a detour if you're dining or bar-hopping nearby, or emerging from Off Broadway theater.

Gino Cammarata, 65 Fourth Avenue, 212 254 1940

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