September 6, 2014 | Short Order

Mad. Sq. Eats Returns for Round Two

by Maria Yagoda

          Madison Square Eats, the bustling mass of food vendors on Worth Square (just off of Madison Square Park), is a bi-annual affair. The pop-up market emerges in late spring and again in September. This time around, three newcomers -- Gumbo Bros, Breads Bakery and Turan -- join the veterans that routinely haunt NYC’s outdoor food markets, including Arancini Bros, Roberta’s, Pig & Khao, and Asiadog.


Sigmund’s truffle-cheddar pretzel demands an ice cold beer.

       The autumn installment runs from September 5 to October 2, and, presumably, it will start to feel like autumn soon. Opening day Friday was unbearably muggy, so I headed straight to Sigmund’s, the Alphabet City, German-inflected bar for a cold beer and a snack. My pretzel, topped with sharp melted cheddar and flecks of black truffle, paired exceptionally well with an ice cold Hefeweissbier brew.


The housemade kimchi and spicy mayo elevate the Korean shrimp tacos to spectacular.

          Nerves calmed and body temperature lowered, I ventured next door to Seoul Lee Korean BBQ, where an unusually enthusiastic crowd had already accumulated for mid-afternoon. I ordered the taco stuffed with crispy, spicy mayo, and sour kimchi -- three bites of pure bliss. Then I followed the taco-loving masses to Calexico, for two more standouts: the fried baja fish, topped with sweet diced mango, and the slow-roasted, chipotle pork. And then I gave in to just one more: Takumi Taco’s spicy tuna, served in a crunchy gyoza taco. It was so exceptional, I had to order another.


If you never can get too many tacos, grab Calexico’s chipotle pork and baja fish, too.

          Of the new vendors, I was most excited by authentic Creole fare at Gumbo Bros. For founders Adam Lathan and Clay Boulware, who met at Louisiana State University, this is the debut delivering New Yorkers their New Orleans soul food. No matter how hot and sticky the climate, the Frenchman Street Creole Gumbo -- sweet shrimp, Andouille, and okra in a smoky tomato-based roux, topped with a round of white rice -- hits the spot. For a funkier (and more traditional) bowl, go with Nanny’s Cajun, a dark-roux gumbo with chicken and, of course, more Andouille.


Owners Adam and Clay will encourage you to go crazy with the Tabasco. I add just a few drops.

          For dessert, I resisted Melt Bakery’s inventive ice cream sandwiches -- a Mad Square Eats (and personal) favorite -- because my heart was set on oysters. At Brooklyn Oyster Party, I ordered one “East Coast” and one “West Coast” for a sweet and briny finish to my hearty, taco-filled supper. I dampened the just-shucked oysters in house mignonette and slurped them promptly, a surprisingly effective palate cleanser on that unforgivingly humid day.


Fresh oysters make an unconventional, yet surprisingly satisfying, dessert.

Madison Square Eats is located at Worth Square (between 24th & 25th Streets) from September 5th to October 3rd. Open 11:00 am to 9 pm daily. For more information visit www.madsqeats.com






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