May 28, 2007 | Insatiable Critic

Prime Burger Café

Too much is just what I like in a burger. Photo: Steven Richter

         Updating Old Homestead’s sidewalk seating with a nip and a tuck to pass it off as the new Prime Burger Café is clearly a brazen move to make the 1868 landmark seem cool. I’d say watching the glitz of their new Meat Market neighbors had gone to the owners’ heads.  Except that the peppered bacon burger I’m barely able to wedge into my mouth may truly be the best burger I’ve ever eaten. And all the variations here – Bourbon-glazed kurobuta pork, the big eye tuna burger and the bun-less farmer’s market special are just $15 (unless you can’t get through the night without the lobster-topped surf & Turf  with a $23 supplement that works out to be about $7 an ounce). 

        Having just recetly revisited our town’s favorite burgers, I’m sure I’ve never eaten chopped prime cow in 9 oz of plump juiciness done up quite so gorgeously --with or without Vermont cheddar, blue Stilton or house cured bacon, cut into four skewered quarters by the waiter if you ask. And the curried green tomato pickles alongside are a definite asset.

    It’s surprisingly pleasant to sit surrounded by human-size buildings and watch the eclectic parade –mommies, scantily-clad nomadic beauties, disoriented bums -- the sky visible and Madonna looming giant size on the Gansevoort Hotel. And to  watch the march of the house’s VIP carnivores exiting a bit woozily with doggy bags from  the dephs inside.

        By the way. It may be worth another $15 for a kobe beef frank to get the trio of organic sauerkrauts with mustards on an elevated merry-go-round. And the hand cut fries are first rate too. Indeed Marc Sherry is not ashamed to admit he’s practically giving away burgers to beef up lunch business. “I want our neighbors to know it isn’t all steak.”

    56 Ninth Ave at 14th Street 212 242 9040


Cafe Fiorello