BITE will keep you in touch with what I’m eating and what I love and what I left on my plate. I’ll share dialogues I have with heroes and divas, princes and barracudas and what I overhear from the next table. Not every day will I have a meal worth writing about, I suspect, not good enough, not bad enough. Dear friends have asked me if I could try to be meaner so I fit in better on the net. I intend to try. As any man who has lived with me will tell you, I was born to be a critic. Of course, isn’t it the critic who has the thinnest skin of all? I must admit to a certain anxiety. It’s been a long time since I wrote without an editor, a fact checker and a copy-reader to catch my errors, misspellings and typos. I apologize in advance. I’m left-handed and that can sometimes be confusing. I might have stopped reviewing restaurants twenty-five years ago when my first novel, Blue Skies, No Candy lingered on the best seller list. But I am addicted to instant gratification. So I’m still here. On my death bed, I am sure my last words will echo those of the sister of Brillat Savarin:
“Bring on dessert.”
December 15, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Best Restaurants 2014
Unlike most chefs who can sometimes be found in the kitchen, standing up front calling the orders, he was visible in the back in his navy blue chef’s coat, cooking on the line…
December 8, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
La Mangeoire: Au Revoir Christian
It’s Chef Christian Delouvrier’s last hurrah on Second Avenue. That’s not to say it’s the end of glory for La Mangeoire...
December 1, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Named for the west coast town Smillie grew up in, the place would feature twists on California food, the chef said, homage to his idols – Alice Waters, Jonathan Waxman, Jeremiah Tower…
November 23, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Cosme: First Bites
The chef worries most New Yorkers have never...
November 17, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Chaating About Tulsi
I can’t imagine a meal here without the sweet and fiery Manchurian cauliflower in its sticky garlic-tomato glaze or the crisp tendrils of okra with onion, cooked and raw…
November 10, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Rainbow Room Brunch
It’s a Tiffany of eats, a Brooklyn Smorgasbord on steroids arranged like an octopus with dozens of chefs in white coats and captains in tunics…
November 3, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
My Upper East Side pals are buzzing and jockeying to be first for a caviar’d toro canapé…
October 27, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
There's a bossa nova beat on the sound system...
October 20, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Aldea Chef Tasting
I find myself loving unexpectedly subtle bacalao on creamy white girts with fried potato strings and a flurry of black olive…
October 13, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Shun Lee West
Somehow, I knew it'd be red...
October 6, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Hagan was in search of Tacos Truth as he had tracked it in years of cross-crossing Mexico on his motorbike…
September 29, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Where I’m Eating Now
About then I find myself longing for a place I know I’ll be happy...
September 22, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Miss Lily's 7A
It has a vibrant hop, stupifyingly beautiful servers of both genders, and a groovy beach-shack-via-the thrift-shop look by Serge Becker…
September 15, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Now I’m anticipating more creative rottenness from chefs Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone with their in this spottily gentrified new playground of the Lower East Side.
September 8, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Had I lured my fussy uptown pals all the way to this Lower East Side unknown on a flighty whim?
August 25, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
I savor the texture. Try to make the thrill last. Inhale grin foolishly, inhale, postponing the encore…
August 18, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Root & Bone
Give me your ambitious, your hungry, your huddled masses yearning for barbeque…
August 11, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
I’ve read the bleats of yelpers abused here, the indifference to their reservations, the welcome stand that becomes a chopping block of rejection...
August 4, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
What would David Waltuck do in his own kitchen again after five years in limbo?
July 28, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
It’s several castes above the typical inexpensive neighborhood Indian café in ambition. Gorgeous service platters. Cushy leather chairs in the teeny lounge…