BITE will keep you in touch with what I’m eating and what I love and what I left on my plate. I’ll share dialogues I have with heroes and divas, princes and barracudas and what I overhear from the next table. Not every day will I have a meal worth writing about, I suspect, not good enough, not bad enough. Dear friends have asked me if I could try to be meaner so I fit in better on the net. I intend to try. As any man who has lived with me will tell you, I was born to be a critic. Of course, isn’t it the critic who has the thinnest skin of all? I must admit to a certain anxiety. It’s been a long time since I wrote without an editor, a fact checker and a copy-reader to catch my errors, misspellings and typos. I apologize in advance. I’m left-handed and that can sometimes be confusing. I might have stopped reviewing restaurants twenty-five years ago when my first novel, Blue Skies, No Candy lingered on the best seller list. But I am addicted to instant gratification. So I’m still here. On my death bed, I am sure my last words will echo those of the sister of Brillat Savarin:
“Bring on dessert.”
May 23, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
No one murmurs a sigh of complaint, but all three of my companions, summoned to share my third dinner at Indian Accent, are apparently wary...
May 16, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
The hostess is willing to seat me. I sense we’re headed toward the end of the counter. I can see a drowsy chef from afar…
May 9, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Of course, you want to come. Especially if you never got to Noma when it was the number one restaurant in the world. And even if you did…
May 2, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Café Altro Paradiso
I’m certainly relieved the menu is mostly not bizarre or challenging...
April 25, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Had I been here before? Was it one of the dozens of vaguely Italian, California-inspired, or trending French spots I’ve lingered in this year?
April 18, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Is there any other exercise in vegetablism so decked out in cream, salt, sugar and quick frying? Not that I know of.
April 11, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Angkor Cambodian Bistro
The giant Buddha head that greets me just inside the door after I climb the few steps under a protective canvas is a surprise. It’s huge with drooping ear lobes...
April 4, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
I could see it would be huge, not just because Batali and Bastianich are involved. By spring both dining rooms would be open and the terrace would be paved with tables…
March 28, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Le Coq Rico
I expected to gasp and sigh and to be enchanted by the purity and the Frenchness of it and that I would be inspired to deliver a glowing first impression.
March 21, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Suddenly an opening blossoms on a not-so-distant Monday The anonymous me
March 14, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
This is not a fast food blowout from April Bloomfield and her partner Ken Friedman…
March 7, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Crave Fishbar UWS
Excuse my being parochial. I’m a woman, a New Yorker an American and also an Upper West Sider...
February 29, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Wildair, At Last
Tributes mounted for a mecca of low-key ambiance and creative strut from the two Orchard Street stars I admired, Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske…
February 22, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Going out used to be carefree, even improvisational You could call...
February 15, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
"Meals Round the Clock!” is printed on the cover of the new menu, a dazzling blaze...
February 8, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
"A love affair between street food and street art” is the mantra...
February 1, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
I’m not a tea drinker. I don’t like tea at all…
January 25, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
It’s impossible not to be affected by the deification of David Chang if you hang out on the Internet. exposed to the daily chanting of food world monks. as I do.
January 18, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
It seems we’re a haven for fertile millennials and would-be hot surfer chicks.
January 11, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Pardon My Caviar
Unless you’re into dancing on the edge of the abyss, this is probably not the best time to consider caviar.