November 7, 2008 |
Short Order
Salumeria Rosi looks like it’s open, and now…it finally is. Photo: Steven Richter
I found Cesare Casella having lunch at his new Salumeria Rosi today at 1:30 p.m. – a sandwich and coffee from a deli around the corner on Amsterdam. “Why not?” he said, “It’s a very nice deli.” He jumped up to give me a taste of chocolate-covered Parmigiana fondant and another of gorgonzola. Odd but not offensive. Then he tore open a panettone to give me a slice. “The Bonfante bakery near Milano will be making this for us for Christmas,” he said proudly, tying a brown paper bag with a string – must be a Tuscan grocery trick. The staff was still pricing goods to open its deli counter at 3 this afternoon. The café begins serving Casella’s tiny tastes at tiny tables at 6 p.m. tonight – prices from $3 to $7 for cured meats, baked crumbed cauliflower, spaghetti bottarga, heirloom seven-bean salad and desserts. “I was going to do appetizers and entrées but I prefer everything be small tastes. That’s how I like to eat,” he said. There's a full liquor bar, waiter service and, as of last night, tables were all booked through November 14, Casella reports, ruffling the signature sprigs of rosemary in his pocket.