BITE will keep you in touch with what I’m eating and what I love and what I left on my plate. I’ll share dialogues I have with heroes and divas, princes and barracudas and what I overhear from the next table. Not every day will I have a meal worth writing about, I suspect, not good enough, not bad enough. Dear friends have asked me if I could try to be meaner so I fit in better on the net. I intend to try. As any man who has lived with me will tell you, I was born to be a critic. Of course, isn’t it the critic who has the thinnest skin of all? I must admit to a certain anxiety. It’s been a long time since I wrote without an editor, a fact checker and a copy-reader to catch my errors, misspellings and typos. I apologize in advance. I’m left-handed and that can sometimes be confusing. I might have stopped reviewing restaurants twenty-five years ago when my first novel, Blue Skies, No Candy lingered on the best seller list. But I am addicted to instant gratification. So I’m still here. On my death bed, I am sure my last words will echo those of the sister of Brillat Savarin:
“Bring on dessert.”
November 23, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Cosme: First Bites
The chef worries most New Yorkers have never...
November 17, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Chaating About Tulsi
I can’t imagine a meal here without the sweet and fiery Manchurian cauliflower in its sticky garlic-tomato glaze or the crisp tendrils of okra with onion, cooked and raw…
November 10, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Rainbow Room Brunch
It’s a Tiffany of eats, a Brooklyn Smorgasbord on steroids arranged like an octopus with dozens of chefs in white coats and captains in tunics…
November 3, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
My Upper East Side pals are buzzing and jockeying to be first for a caviar’d toro canapé…
October 27, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
There's a bossa nova beat on the sound system...
October 20, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Aldea Chef Tasting
I find myself loving unexpectedly subtle bacalao on creamy white girts with fried potato strings and a flurry of black olive…
October 13, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Shun Lee West
Somehow, I knew it'd be red...
October 6, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Hagan was in search of Tacos Truth as he had tracked it in years of cross-crossing Mexico on his motorbike…
September 29, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Where I’m Eating Now
About then I find myself longing for a place I know I’ll be happy...
September 22, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Miss Lily's 7A
It has a vibrant hop, stupifyingly beautiful servers of both genders, and a groovy beach-shack-via-the thrift-shop look by Serge Becker…
September 15, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Now I’m anticipating more creative rottenness from chefs Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone with their in this spottily gentrified new playground of the Lower East Side.
September 8, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Had I lured my fussy uptown pals all the way to this Lower East Side unknown on a flighty whim?
August 25, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
I savor the texture. Try to make the thrill last. Inhale grin foolishly, inhale, postponing the encore…
August 18, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Root & Bone
Give me your ambitious, your hungry, your huddled masses yearning for barbeque…
August 11, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
I’ve read the bleats of yelpers abused here, the indifference to their reservations, the welcome stand that becomes a chopping block of rejection...
August 4, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
What would David Waltuck do in his own kitchen again after five years in limbo?
July 28, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
It’s several castes above the typical inexpensive neighborhood Indian café in ambition. Gorgeous service platters. Cushy leather chairs in the teeny lounge…
July 21, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
We are exclaiming with surprise and pleasure over the stunning still life of octopus “pastrami” terrine…
July 14, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
It would take deep analysis and a body lift...
July 7, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
I would not have predicted a cornflake fried chicken triumph or even the marvelous rare duck with mole poblano….