May 21, 2014 |
Short Order
Disenchanted at Eataly’s new Nutella Bar
by Ana Lopez
My excitement mounts as I eagerly push past Eataly’s intense stream of shoppers, making a beeline for the store’s newest addition, New York’s first Nutella Bar. I’ve loved the gooey hazelnut chocolate spread for as long as I can remember. I would fill my middle school lunchbox with extra Nutella sandwiches to barter for more exotic treats. My friends were desperate for a lunch as sinfully delicious as mine.
Nutella Bar tucked into a far corner of Eataly.
When I heard Eataly was glorifying Nutella, I envisioned amazing innovations. Is it only me? The thrill faded quickly as I stood in line next to the menu on a stanchion. Only seven items are on the list, all bread or pastries, mostly with a smear of Nutella on top except for the Crostatina – a small tart filled with the hazelnut-chocolate blend.
Smeared brioche rolls ($3.80) were sold out and so were the muffins ($4.80). I asked the clerk for a Saccotino con Nutella ($3.80), made from the same dough as the brioche. But she ignored me. I was forced to order the plain old bread with a swath of the stuff to make my trip worthwhile.
Recipes adorn the walls. Maybe they suggest you use fruit so they don’t have to. I’m not sure if she or I was confused by the cookies. When I asked for the Baccio di Dama, the Lady’s Kiss, hazelnut cookies glued together with Nutella, she gave me the Crostatina.
“That’s the tart,” I said.
“No, it’s The Lady Kiss,” she insists.
Whatever it was, I loved its buttery delight with a healthy swirl of chocolate in the middle.
“Fine, give me one of each,” I replied.
“Are you sure? They’re both the same.”
My small sampling of Nutella baked goods. In a last ditch attempt to overdose on Nutella, I ordered the Nutella crepe ($5.80). It was mushy and unexciting. I’m baffled they didn’t add fruit or list other toppings as an option.
I left feeling let down. The walk home was a discussion of the unlimited alternatives they could have included. Nutella Frappe for summer? Nutella Gelato? Nutella dipped fruit? “See? Already my imaginary bakery is better than their real one.” Isn’t it always?
Eataly, 200 Fifth Avenue, between W. 23rd and W. 24th Streets. 212.229.2560. Open daily from 10:00 am to 11:00 pm.