New BarBacon in Hell’s Kitchen is All Bacon All the Time

by Ana Lopez

It hits you at the door. Is that what they mean by umami? That porky smell slaps me in the face as I step into Bar Bacon, the month-old bacon-centric gastropub in Hell’s Kitchen. I close my eyes, savoring that raunchy perfume and then, another blow:  The crowd is three-deep at the bar waiting for tables in the no-reservation joint.  Their bleats echoing on the tin ceiling above make it a cacophonous wait. The bar wraps around a rustic, exposed-brick room that leaves little space for tables. That explains the obligatory detention in limbo.

I regretted not trying the Bacon Bloody Mary the first time; and regretted drinking it the second.

I did this drill once before (suffering the insult of waiting an hour for a total immersion in cured pig), so I already know I want to start with the Bacon Bloody Mary I regretted not trying last time ($13) and the Bacon Tasting ($12), a sampler of four artisanal bacons, two strips of each. My companions are sipping and passing, nodding approval and making faces over the Bourbon Ginger Smash ($13), Not Your Mamma’s Whiskey Sour ($13) and a pint of Lagunitas IPA ($7). I must admit, I’m excited by the swizzle stick of bacon sticking out of my Bloody Mary but the taste of the drink is unpleasantly bitter from a dose of celery purée. I prefer my celery pristine and tall, standing up in the cocktail. Happily I’m able to negotiate a trade for the Ginger Smash.

 
Dinner arrives; Bacon Loves Lobster Roll

Soon we are surrounded by dinner. Bacon Loves Lobster Roll ($18), Bacon Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup ($8), BarBacon Burger ($14), Bacon Banh Mi ($11), Sweet Potato Fries ($4), and Cornbread ($4). Surprisingly, there is no crunch of lardons in the cornbread.

The abusive drone of too-loud pop seems to fade away as we taste and swap plates ever so slightly piggishly. As the waiter clears, I ask about dessert. My companions groan and protest, signaling defeat. I order modestly: a strip of chocolate covered bacon. I break off a small piece, savoring the salty-sweet mouthful but with everyone looking at me as if I just arrived from outer space, I ask to have the rest wrapped to take home.

Bacon desserts are a must

I curl up in bed that night, inhaling the exquisite smell of bacon grease still lingering on my hands wondering how soon is too soon to go back?

836 9th Avenue between 54^th and 55^th Streets. 646 362 0622. Open Monday through Sunday from 3 pm to 2 am.