* Hot Spots Venice *

October 12, 1998

ROOMS AND VIEWS In San Marco, stay at Europa e Regina for the canal view (Via XXII Marzo 2159; 39 041 520 047) or the small and romantic Flora (Calle Bergamaschi 2283/a; 39 041 520 5844). Try the Bisanzio in Castello (Calle della Pieta 3651; 39 041 520 3100) or the bargain Ai Due Fanali (Campo San Simeon 946; 39 041 718 490), on a quiet campo in Santa Croce. . . .

MANGIA BENE Order gnocchetti baked with radicchio and bacon, and tarte Tatin, at Fiaschetteria Toscana (San Giovanni Crisostomo 5719, Cannaregio; 39 041 528 5281). For simplicity and refinement, try the antipasto crudo and the ultimate fritto misto at Da Fiore (Calle del Scaleter 2202, San Polo; 39 041 721 308). Alla Zucca (San Giacomo dell'Orio 1762, Santa Croce; 39 041 524 1570) has inexpensive pastas and vegetables. Vivaldi (Calle della Madoneta 1457, San Polo; 39 041 523 8185) for cichetti or a simple lunch. Great stand-up sandwiches at Bar ai Nomboli (San Toma 2717, San Polo). A zillion different panini at Ai Rusteghi (San Bartolomio 5529, San Marco). Gianduia ice cream, a must at Nico Gelati (Zattere 922, Dorsoduro). The Colussi bakery near Campo San Barnaba (Calle Lunga 2867A, Dorsoduro) for doughnuts and great apple cake. Marchini (Ponte San Maurizio 2769, San Marco and other locations) for cookies and sensational chocolates. . . .

BORN TO SHOP Fabulous toys at Il Baule Blu (San Toma 2916, San Polo; 39 041 719 448). Exquisite costume jewelry, new and vintage, at Alfredo Laggia (Campo San Maurizio 2623B, San Marco; 39 041 528 6042). The best beads at Paramiso (Frezzerie 1701, San Marco; 39 041 522 7120). Mondo Novo for masks (Parte dei Pugni 3063, Dorsoduro; 39 041 528 7344). Tempting tchotchkes at Anticlea (San Provolo 4719A, Castello; 39 041 528 6946). Gianfranco Penzo (Campo Ghetto Nuova 2895/6, Cannaregio; 39 041 716 313) is a master glass painter, mostly in Jewish motifs. . . .

PLANNING AHEAD Start with Backstreet Walks of Venice with Samantha Durell (in N.Y.C., call 873-1964). And contact Robert Wilk, who can customize a luxury week for you, including private concerts and visits to the secret gardens of Venice (fax 39 041 714 571; e-mail: bobwilk@tin.it).