February 8, 1982 | Vintage Insatiable

Vintage Insatiable Critic: 1982-1984

 

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NOUVELLE BOUNCE AT LE PÉRIGORD

February 8, 1982

The new chef from has certainly revitalized the fusty Périgord. Its doddering lineup of dreary classics is gone... more

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DINNER AT THE DAKOTA

October 25, 1982

“Cooking is like love. It should be entered into with abandon or not at all.” That’s a motto Sheila Lukins lives by. Once upon a time, Sheila was just an innocent and passionate hausfrau...more

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CITYMEAL'S FOOD FOR THOUGHT

November 22, 1982

The Ansonia is one of the West Side’s grand old buildings, an astonishing rendition of Beaux-Arts baroque now getting a flashy face-lift. “Louise H.” lives on the fifteenth floor in a nearly bare room with great high ceilings and a vintage bath, an air conditioner that cackles in the wind, a hot plate, and all her belongings in shopping bags piled high in one corner...more

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DINO'S FOODSOW

December 20, 1982

You won't see King Kong at the new DDL, but everybody else is there... Dino himself handing out bread samples opening day...more

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PLAISIR BY ANY OTHER NAME

February 14, 1983

Hard to imagine anyone recapturing the sense-dizzying electricity, the innocent eccentricity of Le Plaisir at its most glorious...more

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SHOOTING FOR STARS AT THE POLO

February 21, 1983

Spiffed up and clubby, the Polo may not be instant perfection, but there are dazzlers emerging from the kitchen…more

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ITALIA: THE REAL STUFF

June 20, 1983

The curious epicure: “What are they eating in Italy? Has the nouvelle cuisine had any impact?”...
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AUNTIE YUAN: A THEATER OF TASTE

July 18, 1983

This brave departure from New York’s Chinese-restaurant cliché may startle pepper-blistered palates…
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I'LL TAKE ROMANCE

July 25, 1983

Fans of the Late Late Show will recognize Erminia at once. It’s that cozy little Italian joint, just down the street where Gene Kelly would woo “the girl.” ... more

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THE ICE CREAM RENAISSANCE

September 12, 1983

Surely this is what the decline and fall o f Rome must have felt like: a jaded populace, all morality abandoned, lurching about the streets in search of new sensory stimulation... more


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GILT TRIP

March 5, 1984


All my life I’ve been haunted by the feeling that in another life I was definitely the Queen of England. That’s why, though a child of unassuming folks from unassuming Michigan, I feel so at home in outrageous luxury… more

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A BREAKTHROUGH ON THE WESTERN FRONT

October 23, 1983

Oh how hungry we are, we Zip Code-hopping cowboys of Manhattan’s West Side. How we've longed for a cozy neighborhood feeding station... more

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LATEST FROM FRANCE: THE ELOQUENT DOLLAR

November 7, 1983

All the buzz about Grandmother’s cooking two years ago made it sound as if Paris might be turned into a giant tripe pot…but then, tripe and stews and glorious blood sausage never disappeared, not even at the height of kiwi power…  more

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WHAT'S HOT AND WHAT'S NOT: THE YOUNG AND THE LISTLESS

September 24, 1984

“The Whole of Nature…is a conjugation of the verb to eat,” wrote the Anglican prelate William Ralph Inge. And nowhere is the verb so passionately conjugated as in the Emerald City on the Hudson…
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HALF-MOON OVER MANHATTAN

October 8, 1984

Why is Mezzaluna the hot fueling spot of the moment? It is winsome. It is clever. And sometimes the food is splendid…more

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THERE'S A SMALL HOTEL

October, 22, 1984

The new Plaza Athénée is not very French and not grand enough, but its restaurant’s a hit with the neighborhood richlings…
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THE  TAPA-DANCE KID

November, 12, 1984

Antoni Miralda’s calculated discount funk and witty food-art set the stage for Barcelona’s Montse Guillen and her fabulous tapas…more

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Insatiable, The Book, Bby Gael Greene







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