October 12, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Sfoglia Stretches Out...
The late-summer shutdown to rejigger the entrance, stake a claim to a small carryout shop next door, Tutto Sfoglia, and double its tables has not quite absorbed the crowd’s demands…
October 5, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
A Voce West
Now chef Missy Robbins stakes her claim to this turf with a bold prelude: fat slices of focaccia slicked with oil…
September 28, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
TwoE@The Pierre/Gansevoort Cafe
I feel rich and vaguely upper crust just sitting here as waiters bustle around, pouring, discreetly setting down overflowing chip bowls to replace ravished ones unasked…
September 21, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Ed's Chowder House
Recruited as consultant here, Ed Brown has distilled New Jersey sea shore and Montauk getaway tradition into tonight’s quartet of chowders…
September 14, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Peru is Hot
I came back from Peru with flavors of chef hi-jinks dancing in my memory, finding portents here at home that gave me courage to predict last week that Peruvian might be our next hot cuisine…
September 8, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
True Compass: Oceana Sails On
Marvelous Manhattan chowder with tenderest clams, sausage stuffed calamari are definitely ready for prime time…
August 31, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Bar Luna/Co. Pizzeria
Even our French guests are impressed with tonight’s special headcheese at Bar Luna. Co.’s pizzas seem far away…
August 24, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
On the Amazon in Peru
It started with a longing to see Machu Picchu as do most excursions to Peru. I had a dark Mel Gibson Inca warrior vision. Then came buzz from trusted food world mouths about Lima as a world-class restaurant city…
August 10, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Sistina regulars who think of Giuseppe Bruno as their own uptown Sirio were also eager to see what he had created in the space where Pino Luongo coddled music world and political nabobs in another era.
August 3, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Hotel Griffou Check-in
What can you possibly do in boxy little subterranean rooms to draw nightlife eaters? Marylou’s had a famously louche clan loitering in this cellar for years. Now, invoking ghosts of an earlier incarnation…
July 27, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Sho Shaun Hergatt
I was warned that the block in front of the new Setai Condominium looked like downtown Baghdad. So we swing into a parking spot on Beaver Street, navigate the scaffolding and take the elevator to a muted world of dark wood, black and red Thai silk and mother of pearl...
July 20, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Gus and Gabriel
It’s the hookup of a pop-food heaven with a cleverly wicked ice cream parlor and neighborhood bar. No credit cards, no reservations, mostly modest prices.
July 13, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
I see scaffolding, green neon, a brigand selling fake bags across the street and the passing mélange of scruff and innocent citizenry drawn to and ejected from Times Square...
July 6, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
I am instantly charmed by the romance of bare brick and filament light bulbs, the water bottle-labeled tap water, the little flower pots, the checked fabric napkins and the salmon rillette on toast sent out as an amuse…
June 29, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
The Not-at-All Standard Grill
Already heat-seeking nomads are three-deep at the bar and I am looking right at Anna Wintour. I know for sure this is the place to be tonight…
June 22, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Marea Battens Down
Sea creatures here are wild, line-caught, deep...
June 15, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
DBGB Daniel’s Burger Joint
It’s already standing room only with the usual foodie first nighters in full swarm, the industry and media and uptowners who define themselves by the tables they can snag.
June 8, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
Marea Braves the Tides
Marea is definitely swimming against the undertow of financial woe and frugality chic. It’s not as if chef Michael White and his partner Chris Cannon…
June 1, 2009 | BITE: My Journal
It’s possible that the management team here is more celebrated than tonight’s VIPs and visiting foodies. Clearly Robert DeNiro and his partners at the Greenwich Hotel mean business…