A fledgling Troisgros has arrived in the kitchen.  Caesar Troisgros, son of the reigning three-star chef Michel, grandson of Pierre, is the fourth generation at Restaurant Troisgros in what I once referred to as a little nowhere town called Roanne, one Alka-Seltzer east of Lyon. (Read “A Gourmaniacal Detour” and revel in the hijinks of the 1973 Frères Troisgros in my memoir, Insatiable: Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess.) In the contemporary version of junior year abroad, Caesar will do a “stage” in America. The French Laundry and Restaurant Daniel are two finishing school posts that have been mentioned.

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