January 1, 1965 | Vintage Insatiable

Vintage Insatiable Critic

    As George Eliot observed while waiting for dessert, "It is hard to live up to our own eloquence, and keep pace with our winged words, while we are treading the solid earth and are liable to heavy dining."  Still I hope vintage readers of the Insatiable Critic in New York might be amused to see these vintage reviews. And perhaps newly arrived gourmands might be amused to discover our early obsessions. Many of the restaurants I loved or skewered or had high hopes for are gone. These older reviews are here for nostalgia or visitors in search of history. 

         If you have a favorite ancient critique you would like to see here email me.

   

 

1965-1969:

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PAPA SOULÉ LOVES YOU

June 13, 1965

La Côte Basque Countdown: cinq, quatre, trios, deux…What a mess!  In quenelles-de-brochet-eating circles, it was like the return to the concert stage of Vladimir Horowitz.  Henry Soulé was making his historic comeback to La Côte Basque. Showman, snob, perfectionist, martinet, conman, wooer and wooed master of haute cuisine…  more

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PALEY'S PRESERVE: THE GROUND FLOOR

November 11, 1968

The Ground Floor is appropriately grand. It is slick, rich, calculating, spare, intimidating. It is Contemporary Wasp…the perfect place to end an affair... more

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THE QUINTESSENTIAL SOULÉ FOOD

November 25, 1968

At La Côte Basque the spirit of Henri Soulé still hovers: in the food and the wine, and in the air.  Electricity!  Drama!... more

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THE MENU RAP AND HOW TO BEAT IT

January 6, 1969

It takes cunning, discipline, poise and unjellied chutzpah to make a dent in the cost of haute dining, but it can be done…more

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STEAK AND BREW: PREMISSIVE GLUTTONY

Januray 27, 1969

The inexhaustible groaning board is a fine old American tradition...more

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THE MAFIA GUIDE TO DINING OUT

April 7, 1969

What is good for the Mafia is good for gourmet country. The Mafia is widely advanced as “the Michelin Guide for Italian Restaurants,” and a three-star police raid is... a tribute to the excellence of the kitchen...  more

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AND NOT A DROP TO DRINK

May 5, 1969

I mourn the needless prolonged neglect of a fine American dining traditions: water...more

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LA CARAVELLE: INSULT à LA CARTE

May 19, 1969

 

Someday a gourmet anthropologist will do a thesis on the Manhattan culture's painful rites of passage.  It will be called, "Coming of Age on West 55th Street..." more

 

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BROOKLYN COME HUNGRY

July 14, 1969

Eating in Brooklyn restoreth the soul. You can go home again. No matter how long and determined your exile, no matter how homogenized your diction, no matter how alienated your spirit. If you were born in Brooklyn or married into it, certain tastes instantly restoreth... more

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LA SEINE: THE RISEN PHOENIX BUILDS HER SPICY NEST

July 21, 1969

On the Ides of March, La Seine was born."They gave us a dead horse and told us to bring it into the Preakness," says maitre d' Martin Decre…” Everyone's fighting to get into La Seine. The names are dizzying: Parley, Roosevelt, Fairbanks, Burden, Loeb, Ribicoff, Mellon, Hoover (as in J. Edgar), the Duke and Duchess (one needn't ask which D&D)… more

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CAFE CHAUVERON AS LOVE OBJECT

September 22, 1969

Cafe Chauveron has long been the love object of my unadulterated great food passion. Great food alone, isolated from chic, ego indulgence, pampering or masochism... more

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PLAYING THE CELEBRITY LUNCH GAME

November 10, 1969

"I don’t care who they are,” pooh-poohed M. Jacques Tiffeau, leering cozily at the dazzling frozen-in-silicone blonde two banquettes south...more

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HAUTE-MEAL FOR PAMELA 

December 22, 1969

I determined to borrow a sheltered, unformed, narrow-minded American child and transform her into an incurable gourmand… more

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Insatiable, The Book, Bby Gael Greene











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