September 15, 2014 | Short Order

A Yogi aims for world harmony by making chocolate

by Elizabeth Nelson


A chocolate factory grows in Brooklyn.

          Ryan Cheney was studying yoga in Thailand when he was struck by the idea of going into the chocolate-making business. “It wasn’t just about chocolate,” the boyishly good-looking Cheney was quick to explain at the opening of his Red Hook chocolate factory Friday night. “I wanted to do something that would promote peace, balance, and health in the world. And chocolate embodies loving experiences.” 

          After spending a year learning how to turn cacao beans into chocolate bars, Cheney launched Raaka Virgin Chocolate. The company operated out of a space in Clinton Hill before moving to Red Hook, where they’ve just opened a 3,600 square-foot factory on the waterfront. They are giving tours and offering classes as well as producing plenty of their signature chocolate bars, truffles, and pastilles. A retail shop is also planned for the space. No word yet on whether Cheney will lead yoga classes there.


Cheney leads a factory tour.

          Cheney is passionate about making chocolate, but he seems to be as concerned about the human impact of his ooeuvre. We huddled in a back room at Raaka’s opening party on Friday night, surrounded by bags of cacao beans, while he talked about the two pillars his company is founded on.

          The first is minimal processing: raaka means “raw” in Finnish. Raaka doesn’t roast their beans, and Cheney compares their chocolate-making process to making seed butter. He wants the flavor of the bean to come through, and uses the lowest possible temperatures throughout the production process. (Hence, the “virgin” tag.)

          The second is human impact. All the cacao beans Raaka uses are sourced from organic farms where, he says, farmers are paid fair rates for their harvests. Cheney confides that he is working hard to raise the price of cacao. He is proud that among the farmers he trades with, the percentage of their children attending school has risen from 45% to 85%.


From plant to bar, this is how the chocolate gets made.

          But enough about social responsibility. How’s the chocolate?

          A Thai chili truffle elicited a “holy hell, that’s hot!” from my companion and made my eyes water. A maple-infused pastille had a crisp bite and melted smoothly on the tongue.

          This is rich, flavorful chocolate that doesn’t lend itself to overindulgence. It begs to be nibbled and savored, preferably with a glass of wine. If you have children, don’t worry about them devouring your stash. It isn’t likely to appeal to unsophisticated palates. Even I, who recently consumed an entire bag of Reese’s Peanut Butter cups (don’t tell my kids), was sated after a few morsels. This is a good thing for both waistline and wallet. Virgin chocolate isn’t cheap -- but don’t forget, your money is helping send a cacao farmer’s child to school.


I couldn’t finish one of these beautiful rosette truffles.

          Raaka’s line of chocolate bars is constantly evolving. Apple and ginger, vanilla rooibos, coconut milk, dark with sea salt, and cask-aged bourbon were highlights at the opening. As part of his humanitarian approach to business, Cheney plans to let employees take turns creating their own bars. Expect confections made with a variety of spices, liquor, fresh fruit, and whatever else unleashed fantasy suggests. Bars start at $3.95 for a “nibbler” and $7.95 for full-size.

          If peace on earth starts with chocolate, count me in.

Raaka Virgin Chocolate Factory, 64 Seabring Street, Brooklyn, NY 11231, (855) 255-3354






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