May 17, 2004 | Ask Gael
I’m going to Paris. What’s the foodie spot du jour?

         Two chef friends said “You must go.” So here we sit at La Table du Lancaster in what used to be the lobby bar and private dining room of the Lancaster Hotel—muffled in heavy swaths of drapery, tables far apart. Expectations sink as I scan Michel Troisgros’s menu, despite the silken lusciousness of tonight’s duck-liver mousse offering. Breads in a tall silver cup. Prices on men’s menus only. Puh-lease. The scion of the three-star Troisgros empire in Roanne has divided his dishes into categories translated freely as Witty, Zesty, Piquant, Sharp, Green, and Sour. I brace for more silliness. But then I’m knocked out by the brilliance of frog’s legs sautéed with tamarind and by the lush goat-cheese cannelloni. His crisp, exquisitely rare rouget on mint-touched grapefruit has me raving. At home, Michel focuses on Troisgros tradition. This fusion dance with citrus, vinegar, and acid tang is what he dreams about. Troisgros recently told a friend it’s still a work-in-progress, but I’m predicting the hotel may be pushing those tables closer together. About $175 all included for two.

7 Rue de Berri, in the 8th Arrondissement 011 33 1 4076 4018

Patina Restaurant Group