July 23, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Nouvelle Sichuan at Legend
It’s even more thrilling to find a master chef cooking new era Sichuan food so well. It’s hard to tell if I’m high on rye or dry spicy prawns…
July 16, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Brooklyn Diner Deli Fix
Restaurateurs and critics don't mix. I know it. I remind myself to be wary. Some restaurateurs die a thousand deaths if you fault their meatballs…
July 9, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Strip House Revised
I see Girls Nights Out all around me in buzzy restaurants, mostly millennials and even their younger sisters dressed for stalking, bathed in blue light as they track their messages while sipping...
July 2, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
A.G. Kitchen First Bite
I’m trying not to be too excited. It’s just the second night after a few friends and family rehearsals. But I’m loving this food and it’s just two blocks from my place…
June 25, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
A Contrarian @ Hakkasan
It’s easy to hate. It sprawls there in a ridiculously ungainly spot on West 43rd Street just begging to be kicked and bullied…
June 18, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Yopparai Sake Bar
Too caught in the delicious sweet stickiness of raw shrimp, and nibbling wasabi to clear my somersaulting taste buds between bites, I didn't care...
June 11, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Laid back indeed. It’s a very small menu, but larded with charcuterie, not typical East Village fare. The word “calliope” is stamped on it in faded red...
June 4, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
I am going for the real deal on my first visit, letting my companions, a Tiger from Singapore and a Lion from Malaysia, handle the ordering.
May 29, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Il Buco Alimentari
“I’m in Italy!” she cries, her voice above the convivial din in the back room...
May 21, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
I watch Giuliano Zulian dance as he directed his minions to insert a table into a nearly non-existent spot up front…
May 14, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
My friends on the Upper East Side endlessly complain they have nowhere to eat except for the usual Italian fixtures…
May 7, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Finally the small plates start arriving — torturously slow, yes — but shockingly good, layered with intense zaps of lemon, garlic and peppery olive oil…
April 30, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
It seemed as if the entire waxed-and-polished floor entourage from 11 Mad had been shanghaied to launch this new dining scheme…
April 16, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
I'm here because I couldn’t resist the seductive email that arrived from first time restaurateurs Yiming Wang and her husband Xian Zhang…
April 9, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Benoit Comes of Age
I was hungry for French. Not modernist French. I was thinking classic, but not tricked-up classic...
April 2, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
Small misunderstandings are more amusing then apocalyptic at this Moscow transplant, recently settled with astonishing verve and style, steps from the Russian Tea Room…
March 26, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
It’s Good to Be King
It’s on King Street where the West Village spills into Soho. So call it King, even though royalty is mostly in decline these days. Hang a baronial chandelier and iron gates for country manor airs…
March 19, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
La Quenelle: Beyond Classic
Cyril Renaud whips off the mask of making do, revealing the ambitious chef who won three stars at the late La Caravelle, cheerleading an economic recovery.
March 12, 2012 | BITE: My Journal
A Chef’s Curriculum Vitae
It is too soon to write, I know. But I’m excited to discover Edwin Bellanco, a chef I’ve never noticed who’s been around forever…