Let him flaunt his cellar’s precious treasures on BYOB Mondays at Montrachet, the vino mecca where Chris Gesualdi, a chef I’ve always admired, is back at the range. A cloud of nostalgia descends as I see so many ancien offerings on the menu. My pal the Wall Street Voluptuary has toted an amazingly stalwart ’53 Latour downtown, thrilled that there’s no corkage fee. Bold enough for the wine’s challenge are luscious braised tripe with roasted salsify, sautéed frogs’ legs in a red-wine escargot fricassee, and a giant globe of expertly roasted sweetbreads with cauliflower and a contemporary hit of yuzu mustard. Sound too wintry? Well, favas, morels, corn, and summer truffles abound, too. Oenophilic revels are routine here, with Burgundies, of course, the usual love object. If your wino is cheeky enough, he or she may want to play “What’s My Wine?”—the house’s blind-tasting challenge. Guess the country, region, appellation, varietal, vintage, and/or producer of the sommelier’s choice to suit your meal, and win a discount on the bottle. With six correct answers, the wine’s a gift.