BITE will keep you in touch with what I’m eating and what I love and what I left on my plate. I’ll share dialogues I have with heroes and divas, princes and barracudas and what I overhear from the next table. Not every day will I have a meal worth writing about, I suspect, not good enough, not bad enough. Dear friends have asked me if I could try to be meaner so I fit in better on the net. I intend to try. As any man who has lived with me will tell you, I was born to be a critic. Of course, isn’t it the critic who has the thinnest skin of all? I must admit to a certain anxiety. It’s been a long time since I wrote without an editor, a fact checker and a copy-reader to catch my errors, misspellings and typos. I apologize in advance. I’m left-handed and that can sometimes be confusing. I might have stopped reviewing restaurants twenty-five years ago when my first novel, Blue Skies, No Candy lingered on the best seller list. But I am addicted to instant gratification. So I’m still here. On my death bed, I am sure my last words will echo those of the sister of Brillat Savarin:
“Bring on dessert.”
August 22, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Burger & Lobster
Some New Yorkers, possibly millennials...
August 15, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
“Papa Tony’s Collard Greens,” may be the unparalleled best either of us has ever tasted…
August 8, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
But the Gods of Pie were on my side…
August 1, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Where I’m Eating Now
If you follow my BITES every week, you might worry that I’m on a rash spending spree...
July 18, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
My Four Seasons
Daddy wasn’t eager to try the fresh-hatched Four Seasons in 1959.
July 11, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Now he’s cooking for the first time...
June 27, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Günter Seeger NY
I’ve come with doubts and a chip on my shoulder. Expensive tasting. Pay in advance. Still, I can’t complain that dinner’s opening shot takes forever to arrive.
June 19, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
But there is something about the menu at this ridiculously -- I assume, deliberately -- noisy space that makes tapas seem new or newsworthy or perhaps newly authentic.
June 13, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
The evolving menu is witty, grandiloquent, and comforting by design -- partly Italian and assuredly French, with Mexican detours and a bow to how Americans picnic...
May 30, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
It’s spring. Of course, there will be pea soup...
May 23, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
No one murmurs a sigh of complaint, but all three of my companions, summoned to share my third dinner at Indian Accent, are apparently wary...
May 16, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
The hostess is willing to seat me. I sense we’re headed toward the end of the counter. I can see a drowsy chef from afar…
May 9, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Of course, you want to come. Especially if you never got to Noma when it was the number one restaurant in the world. And even if you did…
May 2, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Café Altro Paradiso
I’m certainly relieved the menu is mostly not bizarre or challenging...
April 25, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Had I been here before? Was it one of the dozens of vaguely Italian, California-inspired, or trending French spots I’ve lingered in this year?
April 18, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Is there any other exercise in vegetablism so decked out in cream, salt, sugar and quick frying? Not that I know of.
April 11, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Angkor Cambodian Bistro
The giant Buddha head that greets me just inside the door after I climb the few steps under a protective canvas is a surprise. It’s huge with drooping ear lobes...
April 4, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
I could see it would be huge, not just because Batali and Bastianich are involved. By spring both dining rooms would be open and the terrace would be paved with tables…
March 28, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Le Coq Rico
I expected to gasp and sigh and to be enchanted by the purity and the Frenchness of it and that I would be inspired to deliver a glowing first impression.