December 10, 2014 |
Short Order
The Columbus Circle Holiday Market Beckons
By Kaitlin Hill
The stormy weather kept the crowds at bay - not that I'm complaning.
Like an artist’s quick sketch of a small village square, the Columbus Circle Holiday Market sits at the edge of Central Park surrounded by looming towers and trillionaires’ pieds-à-terre, a shopping mall for mere mortals. White tents tied with evergreen ropes and holiday red ribbons are stuffed with handcrafted gifts and tempting food. Suddenly it seems clear I’ve found a way to avoid the raucous crowds in overheated department stores.
But first I decide to stoke up my energy with what seems to be a smartly curated collection of goodies and street food. Where to begin? I’m not exactly the Field Trip Jerky type although I can appreciate the thought. Bar Suzette Creperie? Charlito’s Cocina? The Gumbo Bros?
The truffle samples could divert even the most focused holiday shopper.
I could say I was drawn by the vendor Jimmy Kunz’ smile but, in fact, it’s the free samples at The Truffleist that stop me. Jimmy smears a smidgen of truffle butter on an oyster cracker. It is creamy, earthy, dirty in a highly desirable way. The truffle honey is smooth and sweet with a very delicate hint of truffle too. I could easily demolish a small jar. And with prices just $10 and up, it wouldn’t tax my budget.
The Domo Taco that came with a fork but lacked a bib.
Domo Taco -- a concoctor of Asian inspired Mexican dishes, $4 to $10 -- normally prowls the city streets in a food truck, but the market will be its home for the winter. I considered the kimchi falafel tacos and shrimp tempura rice bowl. “Surprise me with your best,” I challenged. The five-spice pork taco was a splendid choice – juicy pork piled high with Monterey jack and cheddar cheese, a crunch of miso slaw, bright pico de gallo and a slur of crema. Sweet and salty.
I was inspired to sample a second, a teriyaki steak taco, tender, deliciously seasoned, just spicy enough to fight a little chill on my cheeks. Messy, yes, but tacos should be.
Hong Kong Street Cart's display make their dumplings impossible to resist.
The red glow, a clang of pots and pans, and a golden good luck cat beckoned me to the Hong Kong Street Cart. I tried a dim sum sampler, all delicately light and well made. The chicken and pork were good enough yet unremarkable, but I loved the crisp-fried bottom of the spinach tidbit. The dumpling vendors do ramen too -- $4 to $10.
The dessert was so big I could barely stretch my mouth around it and worried I'd be slack-jawed for life.
A friend suggested we go directly to The Baking Bean for chef Clarice Lam’s stunning desserts. I thought her Rice Krispie brownie was buttery and rich but a little dry from sitting out too long and not much more exciting than my mom’s. I promised myself I'd return with my shopping list and time to sample a goodie from Macaron Parlour or Jolie’s Kronies.
Columbus Circle, 59th Street and Central Park West. Monday – Saturday 10am – 8pm. Sunday 10am – 7pm, December 2 to December 24th.