January 14, 2015 | Short Order

You Say Batata, I Say, Yes Please

By Elizabeth Nelson: Photographs by Jeffrey Chuang


  Families are flocking to a new Israeli restaurant in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn
Families are flocking to a new Israeli restaurant in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn

          I’ve been obsessed with sweet potatoes lately, so when I found out there was a new restaurant in my neighborhood actually named after the sweet potato, I was determined to check it out. Batata Pita Bar opened in December in a space where no restaurant yet has managed to be successful, and the many young families in the area have longed for something to thrive there.

          Even as I stepped inside, I got a feeling this incarnation could stick. Batata owners Shenhav Mor Yehzkel and Deborah Bagg have completely redone the place, warming it up with exposed brick and a built-in long wooden bench and counter. Bright turquoise accents add a cheerful touch, and a blackboard counter imparts the wisdom of the day.


Batata owners and wives Deborah Bagg and Shenhav Mor Yehzkel

          Since they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, I figured why not try all three in one day? My photographer pal and I arrived mid-morning to tackle breakfast and lunch. He ordered the scrambled egg malawach (a type of Israeli fried bread) and the acai bowl, while I went for the sweet potato falafel sandwich and a kale/banana/mango smoothie, though the schnitzel and waffle plate tempted me too.


Actually, sometimes I do forget to eat 

          We had the place to ourselves and didn’t have to wait long before confronting warm plates wafting delicious aromas. I was starving and got testy when my friend snapped too many pictures. I probably should not have ordered a green smoothie. It was too predictable -- earthy and tasting of virtue. I should have gone for the peanut butter/banana/cinnamon. But my sweet potato falafel sandwich was divine. Stuffed with beets, pickled red cabbage, hummus, tahini, feta, and delicate, crumbly sweet potato falafel, it more than satisfied my ravenous appetite.


Scrambled eggs and malawach make for a filling breakfast

          I tasted my friend’s egg sandwich too, which he pronounced “really, really good” through a mouthful of malawach. I agreed. He raved about the acai bowl, topped with banana, granola, and almonds, but my green smoothie filled my healthy food quota for the meal. Maybe I’ll be won over by the wonders of purple goo another day.


My friend loved his acai bowl, and I had to admit it was beautiful

          The place was packed when I returned for dinner with my kid. We nabbed the last two seats in the house and dug into a fried-food extravaganza: sweet potato fries, regular fries, plain falafel balls and chicken schnitzel. I tried to make her eat a vegetable, but they were out of her favorite Brussels sprouts and she wouldn’t touch the pickled red cabbage that came on the schnitzel platter. I happily devoured it, along with the tomato and cucumber salad. We both reached for the last bite of schnitzel just as I began to regret overdoing the fried stuff.

          I think I could have persuaded my heir to try one of the salads: quinoa and arugula with toasted almonds, chickpeas, and feta or the kale and spinach with avocado, cranberries, and roasted sunflower seeds. What’s wrong with me?

          Now that I’ve recovered from my grease overdose, I’m kicking myself for not trying the goat cheese and honey malawach for dessert—but I’ll be back.

Batata Pita Bar, 3021 Fort Hamilton Parkway, Brooklyn, NY 11218; 347.599.1260; www.batatabk.com



 





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