February 2, 2009 |
Short Order
I am definitely a Frank Bruni stalker. Got to know right away if we agree. I was surprised he didn’t love Michael Huynh’s Vietnamese fusion at BarBao enough to forgive the chef for recycling his best dishes from earlier gigs. Following Huynh after the joyous discovery of his Vietnamese vision at Bao111 on to Mai House with Drew Nieporent and then at Bun/Soho before this Upper West Side migration, I’ve been tough on Hunyh for leaving so many broken hearts in his wake. But the pleasure of revisiting his Daikon duck hash, the sweetbreads with pickled peach and our favorite yame soup just a short hike from my own digs is a joy for me. So thanks Frank, it won’t always be booked when we call. As for the Diner Journal’s measured approval of Salumeria Rosi – it is definitely cramped at a two-top squished so close to the next table and so far, I’ve not been stuck on a bench in the window as perhaps Frank was. But my guy and I slip in for dinner at least once a week, splitting a zuppe de ferro and the pasta amatriciana or whatever new dish Cesare Casella dreams up. Dinner for two, $65. And it’s my new favorite business lunch spot, too. Lukewarm notices from Bruni means it won’t be impossible to book our tables.
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